November 15, 2024

Today’s Economist: Nancy Folbre: Redeeming Bangladesh

Nancy Folbre, economist at the University of Massachusetts, Amherst.

Nancy Folbre is an economics professor at the University of Massachusetts, Amherst.

A multistoried structure cobbled together without much oversight, groaning under its own weight, a source of livelihood but a risk to health and safety – sounds like the garment factory building in Bangladesh, whose recent collapse led to the deaths of more than 1,100 workers.

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But it’s also a pretty good description of the current system of private regulation labeled “corporate social responsibility” that promises far more to factory workers around the world than it actually delivers.

In the wake of horrific workplace accidents, including a number of fires, in Bangladesh, attention turned to the behavior of brand-name companies, like celebrities being investigated after servants die at their mansion. No fingerprints on the murder weapon, just bits of paper documenting business connections that activists dug out of the rubble.

Next came much who-did-what-when analysis, including attention to local officials’ statements that Wal-Mart had worked to block a push for increased fire safety last year, in contrast to its more recent decision to increase safety inspections. Several European company commitments to push for improved safety standards could be counterposed with the Walt Disney Company’s decision to leave the country.

But while famous multinationals are vivid characters in the story, they aren’t determining the plot. Increasingly competitive globalization and increased emphasis on flexible, low-cost outsourcing limits their room for maneuver (though not their earnest efforts to improve their image).

Even companies with the best intentions can’t guarantee the well-being of workers in a slippery, writhing global supply chain, with layers of temporary subcontractors. As The Economist points out, the disaster in Dhaka makes it hard for any company to claim credibly that it can be sure that its products are “ethically sourced.”

The amazing proliferation of corporate responsibility efforts over the last two decades has generated considerable research showing that both consumers and investors are willing to pay a significant price for decisions consistent with their moral values. But more attention has been devoted to estimates of the modest price paid rather than the results actually delivered.

As Markus Kitzmueller and Jay Shimshack note in a recent review article in The Journal of Economic Literature, virtually no research even tries to assess the comparative outcomes of private and public regulation.

Yet events in Bangladesh clearly show that corporate social responsibility campaigns can’t succeed on their own. Evidence that stronger public-private cooperation could lead to better outcomes is offered by the Cambodian garment industry, whose trade agreement with the United States made imports from the country conditional on improved labor standards enforced by the International Labor Organization in the Better Factories Cambodia program. This program, part of a larger Better Work initiative sponsored by the I.L.O., is now under way in nine developing countries.

Cambodia is no workers’ paradise. Indeed, the Better Factories program may have served to co-opt unionization efforts. A recent report by the A.F.L.-C.I.O., “Responsibility Outsourced,” offers withering criticisms of social auditing programs, especially those that don’t include union representation.

But the International Labor Organization’s program has a pro-labor reputation, and Cambodia’s regulatory regime seems to work better than that of Bangladesh, even though a recent ceiling collapse killed two workers in Cambodia. (Vietnam has also been described as an example of a successful “higher road” strategy).

Public-private partnerships to improve working conditions hold out at least some potential for improvement. The political scientist Richard Locke, looking back on his long and disappointing experience studying the voluntary labor standards adopted by Nike, also cites the I.L.O. program, asking, “If Cambodia can do it, why can’t Bangladesh?”

Peer-reviewed research by Gunseli Berik and Yana van der Meulen Rodgers offers evidence that trade-linked incentives can achieve improvements in working conditions without hindering export or job growth. Other research suggests that such efforts would be even more successful if they extended beyond apparel to other export industries.

The European Union is currently considering ways to use its rules on preferential trade treatment to arm-twist Bangladesh into doing better. In the United States, Democrats in the House of Representatives have pressed President Obama for even stronger action.

Bangladeshi workers themselves are having a more immediate impact. Widespread protests have forced the government to approve changes in the country’s labor laws that could facilitate unionization and consider increases in the minimum wage (currently about $38 per month).

Better to have a crummy, exploitative job than no job at all. Likewise, better to have corporate self-regulation than none at all.

Bangladeshi workers deserve better on both counts. So do we all.

Article source: http://economix.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/05/20/redeeming-bangladesh/?partner=rss&emc=rss

Major Retailers Join Bangladesh Safety Plan

Consumer and labor groups hailed the move by Sweden-based HM – which is the largest purchaser of garments from Bangladesh – as an important step toward improving factory safety in Bangladesh, saying it would increase pressure on other Western retailers and apparel brands to do likewise.

Within hours of HM’s Monday statement, CA of the Netherlands and two British retailers, Primark and Tesco, also joined in.

The factory safety agreement calls for independent, rigorous factory safety inspections with public reports and mandatory repairs and renovations underwritten by Western retailers. A legally enforceable contract, it also calls for retailers to stop doing business with any factory that refuses to make necessary safety improvements, and for workers and their unions to have a substantial voice in factory safety.

PVH, the parent company of Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Izod, also said it would sign on, an expanded version of an earlier proposal that PVH was one of two companies to sign. The new plan lasts five years, the previous one two years.

Ever since the collapse of the Rana Plaza building on April 24 on the outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh’s capital, HM, Wal-Mart, Gap and other companies have faced intense pressure to sign the agreement. Until Monday, only PVH and Tchibo, a German retailer, had.

In announcing its move, HM said that “in order to make an impact and be sustainable,” the agreement “would need a broad coalition of brands.” A company statement said the agreement committed a company to the goal of a safe and sustainable garment industry in Bangladesh “in which no worker needs to fear fires, building collapses or other accidents that could be prevented with reasonable health and safety measures.”

“Fire and building safety are extremely important issues for us and we put a lot of effort and resources within this area,” said Helena Helmersson, head of sustainability at the retailer. “With this commitment we can now influence even more in this issue. We hope for a broad coalition of signatures in order for the agreement to work effectively on ground.”

HM and Gap were the target of an online petition that obtained more than 900,000 signatures and was sponsored by Avaaz, a human rights group. The petition said, “Your companies and other multinationals profit from cheap labor, and can do much more to reduce the dangers of the places where your products are made.”

“HM’s decision to sign the accord is crucial,” said Scott Nova, executive director of the Worker Rights Consortium, a Washington-based factory monitoring group backed by 175 American colleges and universities. “They are the single largest producer of apparel in Bangladesh, ahead even of Wal-Mart. This accord now has tremendous momentum.”

PVH also said on Monday that it would contribute $2.5 million to underwrite factory safety improvements as part of the new plan.

Gap has resisted signing on, objecting to its legally binding nature and saying it was already doing a lot on its own, having hired a fire inspector and promised $22 million in loans for factory improvements.

Bangladeshi labor groups that have sifted through the Rana Plaza rubble have not found any evidence that HM or Gap had garments made at any of the five factories in the building.

But numerous investor, religious, consumer and labor groups are pressing other companies known to have obtained apparel from the factories there – Benetton, Cato Fashions, the Children’s Place, el Corte Ingles, Loblaws and Primark – to sign on to the safety plan. Primark, which had acknowledged that one of its suppliers had occupied the second floor of the eight-story building, had already pledged to compensate victims who worked for its supplier and their families.

Bangladesh is the world’s second-largest apparel exporter, after China, and also has the lowest minimum wage in the world — $37 a month. Its low wages and lack of regulation have helped it attract billions of dollars in orders from Western retailers and apparel brands.

On Sunday, the Bangladeshi textiles minister, Abdul Latif Siddiky, said the government planned to raise the minimum wage for the nation’s more than three million garment workers.

Over the last week, HM was in intense negotiations on the plan with officials from IndustriALL Global Union, a federation of 50 million workers from 140 countries and from UNI Global Union, a federation of 20 million service sector workers.

In a meeting sponsored by the German government that HM, Wal-Mart and other retailers held with IndustriALL and other labor and nongovernment organizations two weeks ago, IndustriALL set a deadline of this Wednesday for retailers to sign on to what has often been called the PVH-Tchibo plan.

Article source: http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/14/business/global/hm-agrees-to-bangladesh-safety-plan.html?partner=rss&emc=rss