December 21, 2024

Prototype: Milk & Honey, an Online Shoe Company Started by Sisters

FOUR years ago, Dorian Howard had one of the most glamorous jobs in the entertainment industry.

“I had the fancy title and the parking spot,” Ms. Howard said of being a vice president for production at Paramount, where she oversaw big-budget movies like “The Last Airbender,” from M. Night Shyamalan, and “G.I. Joe: The Rise of Cobra.”

But after more than a decade in the film business, Ms. Howard, 36, decided to do what a plucky heroine from one of the feel-good dramas that often came across her desk might do: give up everything — or, at least, the fancy title and the parking spot — to follow her dream.

In Ms. Howard’s case, that meant starting a business with her sister, Ilissa Howard, 39, in a field where neither had any business experience: fashion.

Make that two fields. Milk Honey Shoes, their shoe company that allows women to design their own stilettos and pumps with the click of a mouse, is also an e-commerce business despite the fact that the sisters had zero tech expertise when they began.

“We’re not start-up tech kids right out of college,” said Ilissa, who quit her job as a product developer for Toys “R” Us to go into business with her sister.

Perhaps not. But since they started the company in January 2011, sales have doubled and the business has become profitable, Dorian said. She declined to give specific numbers.

Last summer, Milk Honey was selected by Launchpad LA, a business incubator based here, to participate in its mentorship program that offers expertise and work space to promising tech start-ups.

The sisters are proof that having backgrounds that seem far removed from a new business venture can become a strength. Although Dorian jokes that studio executives don’t possess any tangible skills other than having “a Rolodex and an opinion,” her own Rolodex helped her to spread the word about Milk Honey to high-profile clients.

When the actress Ginnifer Goodwin, whom Dorian knows through the entertainment business, wore a pair of Milk Honey peep-toe platform heels to a Prada book-launch party, fashion Web sites took notice. The business relationships that Ilissa had with manufacturers in Asia helped her find a factory in China that would produce customized shoes.

“She knew how to make things, and I knew how to sell things. We figured, theoretically, that’s all we need,” Dorian said, sitting next to Ilissa in a white-board-filled conference room at the Launchpad office one recent morning.

The sisters also happen to adore shoes. In college, Ilissa returned from a semester in Florence, Italy, with 17 pairs. It was this love, combined with the frustration of not always being able to find the shoes they wanted, that led to the idea for their company.

Ilissa, slender and 5-foot-9, says she has always struggled to find heels that don’t make her feel like a giraffe. And Dorian says that she was once “standing in the Saks department store in New York City, which has its own ZIP code, and I couldn’t find what I was looking for.”

So why not create a company where “you’re no longer stuck with the options that the ladies footwear buyer from a department store provides for you?” Dorian said. “You want that three-inch, raised, suede pump? We’ll make it for you.”

The huge growth of e-commerce, and the success of the online shoe company Zappos, fueled their decision to create not just a shoe company but an Internet-based one.

Then came the matter of building it. First, Ilissa met with cobblers in Hong Kong who helped her create a model for making customized shoes in a “scalable way,” Dorian said. In other words, the designs could not be so complicated and different from one another that orders would be hard to fill one by one.

Then the women worked with tech teams to build a Web site that allows shoppers to assemble their shoes on a screen. After selecting the basic model (pump, loafer, wedge, etc.), customers can pick a material and color (say, red pressed snakeskin), add features like a back strap, and pick a heel height. A representative is available to answer questions online or by telephone.

Customers can also make an appointment to try on shoe samples at the Milk Honey showroom in Los Angeles. And yes, the company accepts returns.

NONE of this comes cheap, however. The shoes and boots range from $190 to $310.

Meghan Cleary, the author of “Shoe Are You?,” a guide to women’s shoes and what they say about their wearers, says customized shoes is a “niche market” that is growing.

“Customers are really demanding something specialized, made just for them, or tailored just for them,” she said. “So Milk Honey, along with a few other companies like Shoes of Prey, really tap into that.”

Even big shoe companies, like Converse and Nike, allow customers to come up with new variations of, say, the Converse All Star.

The Howard sisters certainly have high hopes for the future of customized fashions. Having used savings from their previous careers to finance their start-up, they are now looking for investors.

How is the pitch process going?

“I love it,” Dorian said. “I spent my entire career selling my passion. For me, it used to be screenplays and movies. Now it just turned into shoes.”

E-mail: proto@nytimes.com.

Article source: http://www.nytimes.com/2013/01/20/business/milk-honey-an-online-shoe-company-started-by-sisters.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

Prescriptions: Cancer Survivors Appeal to F.D.A. Over Avastin

About a dozen women with breast cancer, some tearful, beseeched the Food and Drug Administration on Tuesday to retain the approval of the drug Avastin as a treatment for the disease.

Testifying at a hearing at the F.D.A., the women said that although clinical trials might not have shown a huge benefit overall from treatment with the drug, the medicine does help some women substantially and should be left available for them.

“I’m not just a statistic; it’s in your hands to make sure I do not become one,’’ said Patricia Howard, who received her first Avastin treatment at 2007 in New York. “Due to Avastin, I am experiencing a quality of life that is nothing short of miraculous.’’

The hearing is being held Tuesday and Wednesday to give Genentech, the drug’s manufacturer, a chance to persuade the agency to back down from a tentative decision made in December to revoke the approval of Avastin as a therapy for breast cancer.

Avastin received so-called “accelerated approval” for metastatic breast cancer in 2008 under a system designed to allow drugs for serious diseases to get to market more rapidly, subject to later studies to confirm they really work.

The F.D.A. says that in the case of Avastin, those subsequent studies did not confirm that Avastin was safe and effective.

Even if the approval is revoked, Avastin would remain on the market as a treatment for other types of cancer, so doctors could use it off-label to treat breast cancer. However, insurers would be less likely to pay for the drug, which Genentech says costs a typical breast cancer patient $88,000 a year.

The turnout Tuesday at the hearing in Silver Spring, Md., was in sharp contrast to a paltry showing last July, when an F.D.A. advisory committee first met to consider whether to withdraw the approval.

At that meeting, only one woman – the same Ms. Howard – testified in favor of retaining the approval. The advisory panel voted 12 to 1 that the approval should be rescinded.

On Tuesday, about 10 women with breast cancer spoke in favor of Avastin in front of the same advisory committee. Some also demonstrated outside the hearing. Husbands, doctors and some patient advocates also spoke in favor. Each speech in favor of retaining Avastin’s approval was met by applause.

“Make no mistake, this hearing is a death trial, not of Avastin but of these women who rely on Avastin to stay alive,” said Terrance D. Kalley, of Troy, Mich., whose wife, Arlene, is being treated with Avastin and who helped organized Tuesday’s protest. “A vote against Avastin by each of you is a vote against thousands of women.”

Representatives of advocacy groups for patients with ovarian, kidney and colon cancer and melanoma also spoke in favor of retaining the breast cancer approval, saying, among other things, that revocation could discourage drug development.

But defying the mood in the room, representatives of four breast cancer advocacy groups testified in favor of the F.D.A.’s proposal to withdraw the approval.

“What use is there for a drug that in this population does not extend life and has significant toxicities?’’ said Helen Schiff of Share, a breast and ovarian cancer support group.

Ms. Schiff said that for every woman who testified Tuesday in favor of Avastin, there were others who were not helped by the drug or had even been hurt by such side effects as brain hemorrhages.

“Those people don’t come to testify,” she said. “I just want you to remember they exist.”

Christine Brunswick, representing the National Breast Cancer Coalition, said: “The F.D.A.’s decision on Avastin must be based on scientific evidence from well-done trials and cannot be based on any one individual story, no matter how compelling.”

These remarks were met by derision. “I am completely disgusted to have to follow someone like that,’’ said Kimberley Jewett, a breast cancer patient and representative of mylifeline.org, a cancer support group, who spoke directly after Ms. Brunswick.

The public testimony, with each speaker given three minutes, occupied the first two hours of the two-day hearing. The rest of the time, Genentech, which is owned by Roche, and the F.D.A.’s drug division will present their competing views and scientific evidence for why the approval should be retained or withdrawn.

On Wednesday, the advisory committee will vote on certain questions that will serve as recommendations for the F.D.A. commissioner, Dr. Margaret A. Hamburg, who will make the decision at some future time.

Article source: http://feeds.nytimes.com/click.phdo?i=24debf7372c18bffec73d77ee5b4ce98